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Delta Miter Jig
Rigid, precise tool.


Jorgensen Hand Screws

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Jeff Greef Woodworking

To see more Box Plans on this site, go to:
Printed Box Plans or Downloadable Box Plans or Box Plan Books


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Your pieces need to be cut to length carefully both in terms of length and squareness. Similar parts, like drawer sides or opposing carcass sides, must be exactly the same length or the drawers and box will be out of square. Use a radial arm saw with a stop block to ensure that same length pieces are indeed the same, or use a cutoff box on the table saw as in photo 2.

Photo 2- A table saw cutoff box will give you very accurate results. Use a fixed end stop, in this case a clamp, to make repeatable cuts of the same length.

DOVETAIL JIGS

There are three general types of dovetail jigs; those that cut half blind dovetails only, those that cut through dovetails only, and those that are capable of both. In terms of expense, the first type are generally inexpensive, the second are moderately expensive, and those that do both are expensive. Here let's look at jigs that do through dovetails only. You can, however, use any dovetail jig for this project, though you will need to shorten dimensions of some pieces if you use half blind dovetails. Remember that if you use half-blind dovetails the joints will be hidden on the drawers.

Jigs that cut through dovetails only are very simple to use. They consist of two flat templates that mount on simple fences. You clamp the template and fence to your work, place your router on top of the template, and the bit makes the cut guided either by bearings or a template guide.

I used a Dovemaster through jig to build this project, but it seems that that jig is no longer available. Two currently available alternatives are the Keller and Katie jigs. Keller has several models, some made from machined aluminum and some from phenolic (a fancy name for plastic?). Their least expensive model is around $150. Katie Jig has a model for around $230, which has the advantage over Keller of allowing variable spacing between dovetails. Both these manufacturers make high quality jigs, better than the old Dovemaster which was inexpensive, but you get what you pay for and you pay for what you get.


Keller Journeyman Dovetail System


Katie Dovetail Jig


Porter Cable 1-3/4 HP Lever Release 690 Router
The PC 690 line routers are standard woodshop workhorses.


Photo 3- Here the Dovemaster jig is set up to cut the dovetails, using a dovetail bit and template guide. Keller and Katie jigs use bearing guided bits, which are superior in the long run.

Check out the Keller jig.
Check out the Katie jig.

The basic principle for using the Keller or Katie is the same as with the Dovemaster pictured here. Before you cut your parts, make test cuts with your jig on scrap until you have the fences adjusted for tight joints. Then cut out the project pieces. First cut the dovetails as in photo 3, then cut the pins as in photo 4. The reason for this order is that on the pin cut you can adjust the fit of the joint, and if after cutting a few joints you notice that the fit is getting looser or tighter, you can adjust for the remainder.

Photo 4- To cut the pins, a straight flute bit is used. By moving the template forward or backward on the fence, you alter the thickness of the pins. Note the taper of the template tangs.

For routers, click here.

A problem with the Keller jigs is that the spacing of the dovetails is set by the templates. This means that, depending on the width of your parts, the joint might have a half pin on one end and a half dovetail on the other. Or, it might end with two half dovetails which is structurally fine but a faux pas to traditionalists. You can settle for this, or design the widths of your parts around the spacing of the jig. A third alternative is to center a given number of dovetails along your part width, and then cut off the half dovetails that remain on the ends with a hand saw. If you do this, be cautious not to make the pin cuts that correspond to the half dovetails which will be cut off. The Katie jig allows you to adjust the spacing of your dovetails to accommodate the width of your stock.

Note that how deep you make your pin cuts affects the final width of your drawers. Your drawers need some clearance in width, but no more than 1/16". Be sure not to give yourself more clearance than you intended with deep pin cuts.

Once the dovetails are cut, dry assemble the four carcass sides. Use a bearing guided rabbeting cutter to cut a 1/4 x 1/4" rabbet around the inside of the back of the box as in photo 5. By doing so with the parts assembled you avoid going through at the ends where it would be visible. Square up the resulting rounded corners with a sharp chisel.


Bessey Power Grip Clamps


Photo 5- Dry clamp the carcass and cut the rabbet for the plywood back with a bearing guided rabbeting cutter.

For clamps, click here.

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