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Safety
Jeff Greef Woodworking
Install the hinges with long screws to guarantee a solid grip in soft wood (photo 11). Predrill holes for these screws, but in soft wood these pilot holes should be only about three quarters the length of the screw, and half its diameter, depending on the density of the wood. I used two hinges in the upper position on this side of the gate because it is six feet wide.
For additional support against further distortion, install a cable and turnbuckle as in photo 12. Use U bolts to connect to the wood and cable clamps to tie it all together. This cable must run the opposite way from the cross brace, so that the cable will be in tension when your kids start swinging on the gate. The turnbuckle lets you fine tune the exact height of the outward end of the gate, as well as allowing for adjustment after a few years settling and childish gate swinging. |
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For miter gauges, click here. For table saws, click here. Cut to length your face planks, and decide on a design (if any) to cut into them. Mitering the corners is easy and attractive. A simple setup on the table saw makes it fast, using your miter fence (figs. 13 + 14). But take the extra time to set up the fence arrangement shown in the photos, or else you may get a surprise from the cut off pieces left between the blade and fence. If the fence is directly adjacent to the cut off, once it is severed it can catch between the fence and blade, and be thrown back at you. The solution is to screw on a piece before the blade as shown. Use this to align the corners to be cut by simply butting against it. Then push the board through the blade. The cut off piece will then have a lot of room and won't get caught. Clear out each piece with a push stick after each cut. |
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As you screw each of the boards in place, measure the distance from it to the end that you are working toward- both top and bottom (photo 15). Keep these distances even as you go, or when you reach the end you may find the boards no longer vertical.
If you have two gates that meet as I did, install a cane bolt on the one that will stay in place most of the time (photo 16). Bore into the concrete below with a masonry bit for the bolt to fit into. With masonry bits the rule is- let it cut at a slow rate. Don't force it or it will force you to go buy a new bit. If you don't have concrete below the gate you can pour a pad large enough for a hole. In this case set a short piece of pipe in the concrete for the cane bolt. And the block of wood under the wider gate? After installing angle brackets, a cross brace, and a cable with a turnbuckle, don't I think the thing will hold up without it? Well, yes it would, but it will last longer with a little help, and it only took 3 minutes. Note that it could not have been put in place unless the drive dropped away from the gate when it is opened, so that the block lifts away from the ground as the gate swings. If your drive is level, consider using a wheel on a wider gate. Resources For Building A GateDrill Bits | Hand Drills | Measuring Tools | Miter Gauges | Table SawsThis is Page 3 of this project. Go to Page 2. Go to Page 1. Home |
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