Tell Your Friends
about this page. Click here to send an email.
Thank You!


Walls and Molding: How to Care for Old and Historic Wood and Plaster
by Natalie Shivers






Jeff Greef Woodworking
To see more Home Improvement Plans on this site, go to:
Printed Outdoor Projects or Downloadable Home Imprv. Plans or Home Imprv. Project Books


Installing Interior Moldings

This project has 4 pages.
This is Page 1.
Go to Page 2.
Go to Page 3.
Go to Page 4.

You picked the style of furniture for your house very carefully. But do your interior moldings match that style or conflict with it? Most modern homes are trimmed with minimal, economical moldings that are uninspiring. But with careful planning and a minimum of tools you can replace existing trim and add more in a style that matches your furniture more closely and gives your rooms a balanced, coordinated appearance.

Resources For Installing Moldings

Angle Grinders |  Biscuit Joiners |  Block Plane or Surfform |  Chisels |  Coping Saw |  Files and Rasps |  Glue |  Hammers |  Miter Saws |  Painting Supplies |  Power Planers |  Prybars |  Sandpaper |  Spring Clamps

Many different molding profiles are available at lumber yards and home centers. The Wood Molding and Millwork Producers Association, a trade group, publishes a catalogue of numbered molding profiles that manufacturers most commonly produce. Use this catalogue to special order profiles not available in your area (see source list at end of text).

Photo 1- This mockup of a proposed library wall and ceiling scheme demonstrates how moldings can be stacked together to achieve a striking visual effect.

Plan carefully what moldings you will use, and accurately tally the total lengths of each profile you will need. Moldings are expensive, so cut costs by minimizing waste. Buy short pieces of the profiles you plan to use, and build mockups of intersecting corners for crown molding, fireplace surrounds, and door or window treatments (photo 1). These mockups will show you what the moldings really look like in place far better than sectional drawings or lineal molding on a lumber rack. Try different combinations of moldings on your mockup to find what pleases you the most. To make wide molding profiles, stack moldings together as shown in photos 16 thru 21.

Photo 2- Glue vertical molding to plinth blocks with a biscuit joint.

CHOOSING A STYLE

Traditional wall treatments use various molding profiles arranged on the wall in a classical design scheme discussed in the section titled "Classical Molding Treatments" (see below). Modern wall treatments tend to follow this basic design scheme, but with less fancy detail and generally not as much molding. For a contemporary look use painted trim, with a greater proportion of wide, flat trim pieces and a lesser proportion of molded trim. For a country appearance use stained knotted 1x flat trim, such as 1x4 or 1x6 pine, and adorn to taste with moldings of the same wood.

PREPARING TO INSTALL MOLDING

Remove old moldings carefully with small prybars, being careful not to damage adjacent areas. Observe whether door and window jamb edges are flush with adjacent drywall. If not, reduce a wood jamb edge with a block plane or taper protruding drywall to the jamb edge with a surfform. Your new moldings must lie flat against the wall and jamb edge.

If you need a prybar, click here.
If you need a block plane or surfform, click here.

15" Pry Bar


Record Block Plane
Well made, attractive tool.


Makita 3 1/4" Power Planer

Photo 3- Scribe on the jamb edge where you want the molding to lie. Test fit each miter before gluing and nailing, and adjust the fit by changing the angle on your miter saw or undercutting.
If you need glue click here.

If you are remodeling and installing new wall studs where moldings will go, check that the studs and headers are straight and well aligned before installing drywall. Use a power plane to straighten bowed studs, but don't hit nails with the blades. Use a hammer and chisel to taper protruding ends of headers or studs where they intersect. The flatter the drywall lies, the easier it is to install moldings on top with tight joints.

If you need a power plane, click here.
If you need a hammer, click here.
If you need chisels, click here.

Porter Cable Deluxe Biscuit Joiner
Biscuit joiners are useful for many joinery tasks.


Dewalt Plate Joiner


Blue Chip Bevel Edge Chisels
Good set of basic bench chisels.


Sorby Boxwood Chisels


Photo 4- Make a custom jig to align your biscuit cutter to your miter joints.
If you are looking for a biscuit cutter, click here.

Interior moldings that are intended to be painted are made of woods such as poplar or pine which do not have open pores. Don't try to paint open porous woods such as oak or Philippine mahogany because filling the pores to achieve a smooth surface is very time consuming. Beware of stripping existing painted moldings with the intention of staining them because the paint grade wood underneath may not be very beautiful, and may have much filler putty in holes which doesn't look good stained. Stripping is time consuming and can take longer than replacing the moldings.

Many paint grade moldings are made from finger jointed stock, which is made of many short pieces of wood glued end to end. This is less expensive, but the finger joints sometimes become visible through the paint because the two pieces of wood on either side of the joint expand and contract at different rates with seasonal airborne moisture variations. Use finger jointed stock in lower profile areas of the house or on baseboard where it is less visible.

Photo 5- Custom fit the jig to center biscuit joints along the particular width of molding you are using.

Any wood can be used with stain and\or clear varnish. Some woods such as cherry and maple may not absorb stain uniformly and will appear blotchy, so with these use no stain and only clear varnish topcoat. Oak and walnut will stain uniformly. All stain grade hardwood moldings will be significantly more expensive than their paint grade counterparts.

This is Page 1 of this project.
Go to Page 2.
Go to Page 3.
Go to Page 4.




You are visitor number 150676 to this page.