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Jeff Greef Woodworking
BUILDING THE JIGS When you use a router table with flat stock, you use a flat router table. When you do router work on spherical pieces, you need spherical surfaces to place your work upon. With a flat router table and flat work, when you want to flip the part and put the opposite face on the table you use the same table. With spherical parts you must make two jigs- one that is domed and one that is dished. You work on the outside of spherical parts on the dome jig, and work on the inside on the dish jig. See photos ahead to look at these jigs. These jigs are somewhat time consuming to make but you will spend far more time using them than making them. The ultimate accuracy of your work will be a function of the accuracy of your jigs, so it is wise to build them well. But, know where you must be accurate and where it doesn’t matter. The accuracy of the dome and dish jigs depends on how well the spherical surface is cut into them, that is, how close it is to a true sphere. As well, the accuracy of these jigs depends upon how rigid the structures are that suspend the router above the work. Great care in locating the pivot points for the swinging template arms and making them and their supports rigid is necessary. It is not necessary to make the dome and dish glue blanks all that accurate up to the point of glue up. They just need to be close enough to the required shape that the router can cut the required sphere section into them. They are carving blanks. The flat surface beneath the dish jig needs to be flat and rigid, because special jigs that hold parts during the first shaping cut must be located on this surface. The surface to which the dome jig is attached doesn’t need to be flat because the only thing that gets attached to it is the dome jig itself. However if it is terribly out of flat you will have difficulty aligning the pivots for the template arms. |
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Use a stable wood for the dome and dish jigs, so that once you have cut out the spherical shapes into them they will be less likely to distort with moisture variations in the air. I used recycled redwood fencing for mine. This old growth redwood, pulled out of the San Jose, Calif. landfill, is very stable stuff but it had a lot of knots in it. Since I was sinking numerous screws into the jigs to attach parts the knots became a problem occasionally. One screw sheared off in a knot, then I forgot to pull it before resurfacing the jig with a large router bit, which was damaged when it hit the screw. This was the only time in the entire project that I hit metal with any router bit- a good record given how close the expensive cope and stick bits come to screws during use. Back to conceptualizing about spheres so we can figure out how to make the pieces that go into the dome and dish blanks. Imagine a four foot diameter sphere with a flat, horizontal plane passing through the middle of it (drawing 3). Now, imagine parallel planes spaced at 3 inches from the first, both above and below it. Continue adding such planes until there are enough to fill the inside of the sphere. Note that the first plane contacts the sphere at a tangent that is 90o to the plane. But the planes adjacent to the first plane contact at a tangent with an angle less than 90o. The further each plane is from the center plane, the less the angle is of its tangent to the circle. From this we see that each successive layer of the glue up lamination for each of the dome and dish jigs must be cut at a different angle than the last. |
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As well, each successive layer must be cut at a different radius, because the circle described by that layer has a smaller circle radius to the Y axis, even though that circle has always the same sphere radius as the other circles to the sphere center. I began my jigs by gluing together three pieces of 1x fencing as in photo 1. First I planed the fencing so it would glue well and to make the pieces uniform in thickness. After laminating the groups of three together, I edge glued them together to make large plates as in photo 2. I made a full scale section drawing through each jig to show me the angles and radii required for each as in drawing 3, then began scribing the radii onto the large blanks with shop-made trammel points as in photo 3. Next came band sawing each of the laminations out as in photo 4. For efficiency I glued the off-cuts onto other blanks as in photo 5. |
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Photo 6 shows the first glue up for the dish jig. It gets glued up in an upside-down position so that the critical inside surface can lie on two special plywood reference jigs during the glue up. Those jigs hold each of the laminations in correct relation to each other so the end result approximates the sphere required. The radius of those jigs is a function of how far apart they are from each other, just as the radius of each lamination is a function of how far they are from the central plane, as explained above. Photo 7 shows the first glue up of the dome jig, again upside down so that the surface of the jig that we want to use is the one that contacts the reference jigs. After that dried I glued on two more laminations on each side, after that dried two more went onto each side as in photo 8. I made two domes, one for the router jig and one to use as an assembly table to glue the frames together on. This is Page 2 of this project.Go to Page 3. Go to Page 1. Home |
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